Beer, pivo, bier in Prague
Prague without beer is like Amsterdam without its canals, Paris without the Eiffel Tower and London without Big Ben. The city is a true paradise for beer lovers, boasting a rich brewing tradition and a culture that celebrates the art of beer. Whether you call it bier (Dutch), pils, pivo (Czech), or simply beer, you'll find that Czech beer is more than just a beverage - it's an integral part of Prague's social life and history.
The Czech Republic has the highest beer consumption per capita of any country in the world, and Prague is home to some of the finest and most renowned brews. From crisp, golden pilsners to rich dark lagers, each pub, restaurant, and brewery has its own unique specialties to explore.
When in Prague, visiting a traditional Czech hospoda (pub) or pivovar (brewery) is a must.
Pilsner Urquell
Pilsner Urquell, which originated in Pilsen in 1842, is widely available across the Czech Republic and is celebrated for its refreshing, light taste with a mild bitterness. Currently, a half-litre will cost you between 50 and 125 crowns (€2 to €5.00), depending on the establishment. Alongside iconic brands like Staropramen and Kozel, you can also discover small craft brews that provide a unique twist on this beloved drink.
Cheers! Or as the locals say, Na zdraví!
Personal tip
Begin your beer journey with a smoother Staropramen or Gambrinus before savoring the bolder, richer taste of Pilsner Urquell. Trust me - save the best for last!
Beer comes in half-litre servings
When you order a "Pivo" in Prague, you'll automatically be served a half-litre, often the most expensive beer on the menu. If you'd prefer a smaller beer or a different brand, make sure to specify. It’s also a good idea to place a beer mat on the table before the waiter arrives.
City centre is more expensive on average
That said, as you get closer to the city centre, the glasses tend to shrink (0.3 or 0.4 litres), and the prices go up.
If money’s no issue, feel free to grab a seat at the first terrace that catches your eye and enjoy your beer.
Traditional Czech Pubs
This might come at the cost of atmosphere, as you'll often find yourself surrounded by (noisy) tourists. Is that a problem? Not necessarily, but in my experience, it’s much cozier when you’re among the locals.
If you’re not one to follow the crowd, steer clear of the tourist trail and seek out a hidden gem. The doors of Czech cafés or pubs often seem closed, but once inside, you’ll discover a warm atmosphere with beautiful cellars, beer tanks, and relics.
Four types of foam
Foam, a little different in Prague
A normal beer is called a Hladinka
When you order a beer in Prague, you'll automatically receive a Hladinka, a 'normal' beer, so there's no need to mention it.
The Hladinka has slightly more foam than what you might be used to in your own country. You’re not being short-changed; you still are getting a full half-litre.
How to pour a Hladinka, a classic Czech beer?
Hold the cold glass, rinsed just before use and completely grease-free, under the tap at a 45-degree angle. A "dirty" glass can be identified by air bubbles sticking to the foam against the glass.
Open the tap slightly to create a creamy layer of foam in the glass. Then, fully open the tap, allowing the beer beneath the foam to fill the glass. The foam acts as a protective layer against oxidation, preserving the aroma and texture so you can enjoy a smoother and 'living' beer.
Three other styles of foam distribution:
Šnyt
A thicker layer of foam keeps the beer 'alive' longer and is enjoyed as a refresher, especially with a heavy meal.
Mliko
Except for a thin layer of beer, the glass is filled with foam, which has a creamy and sweet taste. It looks like a glass of milk, which is what mlíko translates to. The idea is to drink it all in one go, and it can be used as a dessert after a savoury meal. It's popular among women.
Čochtan
Čochtan is poured all at once and contains no foam at all. The downside is that without the foam, it oxidises quickly.
It's refreshing and perfect to quench your thirst, but if you really want to enjoy it, it’s best to drink it quickly.
Hladinka, Čochtan, Šnyt and mliko
A lovely quote:
"At the beginning of the 20th century, men would feel embarrassed to drink small beer from a small glass (it wasn’t considered masculine), so we invented šnyt. It’s actually small beer in a large glass. It was often called 'farewell beer' (na odchod), meant to be ordered as your last drink before paying and heading home."
This tradition still holds, as we often poke fun at those who order small beers. Once, I ordered a small beer in a countryside pub, and everyone, even the lady behind the bar, started laughing at me. She then poured a large beer and said, "You’re a man; here’s a large one."
Colours of beer
After ordering your beer, you’ll often be asked whether you’d like a light or dark beer:
- světlé = light
- polotmavé = semi-dark
- tmavé = dark
The darker the beer, the sweeter it tends to be. Kozel Black, the most famous dark beer, has a caramel-like flavour with coffee notes and is richer than a light beer. Typically, its alcohol content is lower than that of a light beer.
Boring stuff about beer
Plato Degrees and Alcohol Content
According to Czech legislation, beers are categorised into four groups, regardless of colour or style. This indicates the wort density: the percentage of dry, dissolved substances (mostly sugars) in the wort.
Wort is the sugary, watery solution that serves as an intermediate product in the production of beer, whisky, gin, and other grain-based alcoholic beverages.
While this information is not permitted on labels in some other countries, such as the Netherlands, it is mandatory in the Czech Republic.
- lehké – a "light beer" with a density of less than 8° Plato and fewer than 31 kcal per 100ml.
- výčepní – "draft beer," though these can also be bottled, with a density between 8° and 10°.
- ležák – "lager beer," with a density between 11° and 12.99°.
- premium – "special" beer, with a density of 13° and above.
Be mindful when ordering beer, as the Czechs use density rather than directly indicating alcohol content. For instance, I thought I was ordering a 10% beer, but it turned out to be a 10° Kozel Black.
To find the alcohol percentage, multiply the degrees by 0.4.
Alcohol-Free Beer
Only if necessary
If for any reason you prefer or need to avoid drinking real beer, alcohol-free options are also available in the Czech Republic. The most well-known brand is Birell, which has been on the market since 1992.
Personal Opinion:
At home, I often drink 0.0% beer, including Dutch brands like Heineken, Grolsch, Bavaria, Hertog Jan, and some private labels. All are flavoursome choices, though it can be an adjustment if you're used to "regular" beer. Unfortunately, I found Birell to be rather tasteless. It has a watery consistency with the colour of beer, and I only had one. I was hoping for a draught equivalent of a real golden brew, but it came in a bottle instead.
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